|A padded doublet, made in the Grande Assiette style of the mid
This one is based on the extant civilian doublet of Charles de Blois.
There is little or no evidence that this was ever worn as a piece of
padding, or as an arming garment, and it is not clear whether the
padding in the actual garment as it is today was original, or added
during later restoration work. (Though it may be that the chest
was padded to create a fashionable shape.)
Several things are certain about it:
- the style was around for a very short space of time - roughly the
1350s to the 1470s or so;
- the cut of the underarms would have been uncomfortable to
wear, due to the amount of fabric that bunches under the armpit;
- that the waistline of the doublet was cut to be exceptionally
tight, almost like corsetry, to aid in the creation of the fashionable
shape I mentioned above (small waist, large chest). Stella Mary
Newton wrote that the doublet must have maintained a "vice-like
grip" on the wearer's abdomen.
This version of the doublet is made in white heavyweight linen,
lined in a lighter linen. It is padded with woollen fleece.
As with the original, the front and the sleeves fasten with hand
made cloth buttons.
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